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I am declaring the long drought over. It’s been 160 years since the Denny Party arrived and founded Seattle in 1851. And the Duwamish were here long before that. And just as 2011 dawned, Stephen Brown and Daniel Levin decided it was (finally) time to bring world class bagels to the Emerald City. They’ve positioned their new bagelry – Eltana – well (both literally and figuratively) for the self-conscious Seattle trendsters, but more on that in a bit. First let’s establish my own personal baseline for bagel quality. (Cue insecure Seattleites to point out what an asshole I am for having an opinion.)
OK. Now that we’ve done our survey, Messr. Levin used to work (as an intern) at St. Viateur’s and brought his expertise to Eltana. Yay! He calls his bagels wood-fired and sells them out of his lovely establishment in Capitol Hill appealing to all the locals with a wall sized crossword puzzle that changes regularly. He can call the bagels eco-friendly, organic, hemp bagels for all I care. Whatever keeps Eltana in business with Seattle folk is fine with me, because these are the best bagels in Seattle. And, I suspect, they are the best bagels in the United States. I’d like to hear of challengers for this crown, but until I try something better I’m declaring default judgment in favor of Eltana.
The bagels themselves are small, almost pretzel-like. They’re made by hand and there are no blueberry or asiago versions. Just the basics – sesame, salt, poppy,
pumpernickel (bad blogging memory), wheat, and plain. (Levin tells me he’s working on Zaatar and Cinnamon Raisin as well.) The flavor is clean clean clean. I was reminded not just of St. Viateur’s bagels but of the Israeli baygelah when eating Eltana’s sesame bagel. And that’s a good thing. There’s a density and chewiness to these bagels that reminds you that you’re eating a food of substance.
A competing bagel maker in Seattle once told me he got his recipe from food consultants in Denver. Denver!!!! I’d set aside my snobbiness at their origin if the bagels were any good… which they were decidedly not. Characterless facsimiles of oversized, novelty New York bagels (cranberry anyone?). The only thing I want from food consultants in Denver is a recipe for chips and salsa that goes well with Coors beer and a Bronco’s loss.
Eltana’s creators’ Jewish/Israeli cultural influences show beyond their staple in their spreads and salads. Thankfully absent are the faux Jewish cultural icons of the Noah’s bagel chain. Instead of “shmear” you get Zhoug Egg Salad (Zhoug being an Israeli/Middle Eastern mix of chopped hot peppers), Crispy Chickpeas and Leeks, Tahini with Cauliflower, and of course the Shakshuka – a savory and satisfying tomato pepper and egg stew. (I was too early to sample it but I’ll be back.) Make no mistake about it… Eltana is really an upscale modern Israeli cafe. The bagels are the least Israeli thing on the menu. And all that delicious food is wrapped in a Seattle friendly, non-threatening package. The owners of Eltana may have a brilliant plan or be crazily winging it. Either way, they are bringing fantastic examples of the food of my people to the Pacific Northwest. Let’s hope the Pacific Northwest realizes how lucky they are to have it.
Let me make this short and sweet. I’m not an expert on the street food regulations in Seattle. They may be on the verge of changing. They may not. But here’s where things are at this very moment.
Portland, Oregon is filled with multiple clusters of street food vendors organized in little parks of vans, trucks, trailers, and shacks. Some of the street food is ok, but a non-trivial percentage of it is fantastic. It’s simple, it’s often cheap, it’s focused, and it adds a dimension of choice in eating across Portland that makes it somewhere you want to be. The best trucks are positively magnificent. And from what I’ve read (feel free to disagree in the comments if you’ve got data) the good restaurants in Portland are not going out of business.
On the other hand… Seattle has essentially none of this.
Seattle… you should be ashamed. Vancouver has incredible Asian food. Portland has food carts. And Seattle… has… well… Ivar’s. (Not that there’s anything wrong with Ivar’s.)
I would have hoped Seattle could do better. I still hope it can.
And you thought we were only about restaurants and food photography… TastingMenu just launched it’s first app! Kitchen Toolkit is several tools in one for the home cook. The app includes a kitchen timer (to remind you when your dish needs to come out of the oven), a unit converter (handy for various recipes with different measurement units than you have at home), and two meat charts detailing the cuts of beef and pork. Think of Kitchen Toolkit as the “Swiss army knife” for the home chef.
Kitchen Toolkit – A Cook’s Best Friend, is the first food and cooking related app from TastingMenu and your friends at Jackson Fish Market. It’s available today for Windows Phone 7 Series Devices at the Windows Phone Marketplace for only 99 cents.
Download Kitchen Toolkit (You must have the Zune client software installed on your Mac or PC for this link to work.)